Le CouCou, Soho

It's been a minute since I've enjoyed fine French dining. When my Florida restaurateur brother Todd invited me to join him and some colleagues for lunch at Le Coucou, how could I resist? I knew the company would be stellar, but I'd forgotten how wonderful fine dining could be.

Le Coucou is Chef Daniel Rose's take on classic French cuisine, with an emphasis on the Normandy region. It's inventive and anything but stuffy. That applies to the staff as well, who are warm, friendly, and seriously conversant in food and wine. The beautiful dining room is one of those spaces that make everyone look better - all high ceilings, whitewashed brick walls, burnished finishes, and candlelight.

We enjoyed superbly prepared classics like Vol-au-Vent Coucou (sweetbreads, lobster, and cream sauce in a crisp pastry shell, above), and Caille Grillée (grilled quail with foie gras, chanterelles and fresh fig). Desserts were extraordinary, especially the Vacherin au Pomme

Verte (green apple ice cream, meringue, Calvados gelée) and the special Green Chartreuse Crème Brûlée (if it's offered, get it!).

I'd never really gotten Île Flottant, a meringue island floating in a sea of crème anglaise. Le CouCou's cake-sized version made me a serious convert. That's the thing about a restaurant like Le Coucou. When a classic experience is shaken up a bit, you appreciate it in a whole new way. Thanks, Todd!

Le Coucou, 138 Lafayette St., Soho. Click here for their website.